Link to the previous page outback-1-e 
Mt. Isa 25. September ’18
We now set off for Mt Isa, the last stop before the total outback for the first 670 kilometres.
The side wall is now finally attached to the long side of the awning, so you have the feeling of having an additional room and you can still see outside. It was only after a few days that I realised that you can also see inside from outside. Well, it doesn’t keep out the sun completely, but about 50% and the wind gets through (when it blows). The sun and privacy screens for the driver’s cabin are now also attached to the car windows every day, which makes quite a difference as the sun pops as soon as it rises. We also leave the bed linen hanging all day if we can, which also keeps the sun out, as you can’t always find a shady spot. It hasn’t cooled down much at night yet, but we’re flexible and prepared for anything.
Mt Isa is like a giant oasis, green, surrounded by mountains in the outback. It’s like a miracle after the long total drought, which looked more like autumn than spring.
There is a beautiful RV site at the entrance between mountains and palm trees, but we decided to use the one closest to the „centre“, about 2 km by bike, because we still have to stock up for the next stretch of the journey, our fridge isn’t very big and it’s not very cool in these temperatures. Many people only eat out of a tin, but Gerhard is more into the „Out of Africa“ feeling, with a tablecloth and crockery.
We then took a trip into the mountains and came across an indescribably beautiful lake district. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to spend the night there. So we went back and spent another 2 days at the palm resort.
We wanted to leave at 6am on Sunday, but the shops don’t open until 9am and we wanted to stock up for 3 days in the middle of nowhere. Haha, nothing was open here, everything was closed. Luckily I had already bought some tins beforehand because the organic was so cheap and they had a good selection. Flour too – just need to turn on the oven in the heat ……..
Mataranka 02. October ’18
We then stayed 3 nights in Mataranka, where we made extensive use of the thermal pool, because at 43°, water at 33° is still refreshing. An incredible 30.5 million litres of water flood through there every day. Not far away, we also used the Bitter Springs, although they took some getting used to. Beautifully situated among palm trees and tropical forest, we also went on a very nice hike there, which, as usual, turned out to be quite exhausting for us.
Back to the springs: we were initially greeted by a terrible stench coming from up to 200,000 bats hanging thickly in the palm trees. We thought bats were nocturnal, but here we were taught otherwise, and that they are not ugly at all. It was the Redfox, the name comes from the colour and when they fly the red-brown wings glow translucent in the sunlight. These bats taste the best of all, deliciously grilled, we have learnt in the meantime (no, not tasted). They travel up to 50 kilometres at night.
Once you’ve got used to the smell, it’s not so bad and when you realise that a lot of water is flowing through here, the bats above your head no longer bother you. Gerhard then realised that the ground here was so soft in contrast to the previous pool, I just didn’t think about it.
This is also where we experienced our first gusts of wind. We are sitting so nicely on our 
„terrace“, I’ve just got out of the shower, put on my bath towel and are looking through the documents for the onward journey. Suddenly, a tornado came parallel to us, we jumped up and stared spellbound as it raced along the path to the right at quite a speed, just as we were about to sit down again in relief when it turned and came straight towards us. We were so taken aback, it happened so quickly and all our documents were already whirling in the air. So we held on to the towel with one hand and tried to grab the papers with the other ……..
We were hit twice more on the highway, I was really scared, didn’t know what was going on, thought we would end up in a ditch, but Gerhard reacted really well, the 3rd one then at our overnight stop, but passed us by very closely.
After 2 nights in the great outdoors, well not quite so free, on a rest area, you still feel freer and more connected to nature, we were then on the Stuart Hwy, also called the Explorer Hwy, as many of the first settlers took this route, but through bushland and by horse and cart. It’s interesting to see these old things in the museum. The Stuart Hwy separates the country from Melbourne to Darwin. It was also time to get back to civilisation, yesterday there wasn’t a drop of water left in the tank, luckily we still had a few bottles of water in reserve.
On our second overnight stay, we added another 20 kilometres, 
because a black cloud of fire gave us a bad feeling and the smell of burning was unpleasant. A few days later we learnt from other campers that our road had been closed for three days. So we have been lucky so far.
We treated ourselves to a detour again this time, as we did a good 10 years ago. A visit to the legendary Daly Waters pub. …-G)
During World War II, Daly Waters was the air base for the stopover from the south to Indonesia in the war against Japan. This pub was the only „pleasure“ in the wasteland – today a place of pilgrimage for the chosen ones.
The Stuart Tree is also nearby. Everyone needs their highlight. -G.
Another „highlight“ on the way: we passed the original film hotel from „Crocodile Dundee“ on the way. If there’s nothing else, you have to see where you’re staying. -G.
otherwise we’d rather look once more than too little. Gerhard has been raving about glass crockery since Florida and when we discovered the same here, we had to have it. So more „Beyond Africa“ than „Explorers with tin bowls“. The explorers didn’t just drink from their tin cans, they also used wire to create a handle on the cans. Yes, we know all about it, after all, we go to museums. Then came the enamelled crockery for the common man, which I love again. There is also a lot of beautiful melanin crockery here, which is only available in Germany at „Manufaktum“ for a lot of money.
Maybe something like this is better. We also had too much, but what was broken? Of course not that – too much.
Then we set off for the loneliest area, but with 100 litres of water in the tank, our own toilet and shower. We had a spade with us, but the earth was too hard and dry.
421 kilometres driven, more than expected, and it’s at least a bit windy. Well, we’re still environmentally conscious and therefore complied with the rangers‘ request not to use air conditioning. We drove through marvellous landscapes. Total wasteland alternated with vast forests. The trees are very low, all of them have been ravaged by fire at one time or another, but they always manage to get themselves up again, but don’t have time to grow.
In the meantime we have also learnt what the kangaroos are all about: the roads are slightly curved and the roadside is the only place where you can still find some greenery, as the little moisture then runs off there.
Yesterday I made pizza (the cheese had to go), if it had been cooked it would have been delicious. Today we’re having tinned beans, as befits an outbacker.
Today only dead car tyres on the roadside, but also in masses.
Katherine 06. October ’18
Then to Katherine, topped up everything, water, provisions and checked through everything again before heading into Kakadu National Park.
On the way there, a detour to the incredible Edith Falls.
Fantastic location and really with lots of crystal clear water from the surrounding mountains. In the afternoon, the lake was almost empty (i.e. without people but with water) and we did a great circular walk to the upper water levels in the mountain. We hardly met anyone – who is crazy enough to climb over huge boulders and have fun doing it? But everything is nicely signposted as a hiking trail – in Germany it would certainly be closed due to „danger to life“. As compensation, another dip in the „pool“. The next morning, our morning, not before getting up, we had the water to ourselves again for a refreshing dip.
Thus fortified, we headed for Kakadu National Park. -G.
At the junction in Pine Creek there should be an iron railway museum. The pictures don’t hide anything. There used to be a railway line, but it was closed a long time ago. The rails were left lying around – perhaps ……. The locomotive and the wagon were also kept.
Even the station house is still the old original. Hope is the last thing to die. -G.
Kakadu Nationalpark 10. October ’18
Then off to the park. Many paths can only be done with 4W, but that’s just as well, because we slowly have to see that we get to the coast, because it’s getting hotter and hotter and apart from some crazy Germans, there are no more sensible people on the road and many tours are already closed.
We went on 2 ranger tours. One went to the caves with old Aboriginal paintings and we also learnt a lot about their culture (which fortunately could not be completely eradicated). The second was in Ubirr, which had actually been recommended to us because of the saltwater crocodiles, it went to paintings again and ended after we had once again climbed a rocky mountain with a wonderful view over wide plains with sunset.
Next day to the crocodiles. By the way, the natural pools and parts of the rivers are kept as crocodile-free as possible with barriers and controls. A lot is done for the population, we are always very impressed, not just for those who already have everything and that makes people relatively happy. It really is unbelievable what is being done here in terms of leisure facilities and improvements. There’s always a road being improved somewhere, even in the middle of nowhere, and it’s going smoothly. There are an incredible number of parks and barbecue facilities are provided everywhere, and there are clean toilets and water everywhere. We just wonder how all this is financed.
Digressing again, where was I? Oh yes, with the crocodiles, they grow up to 7 metres long.
So we went, but we weren’t in such good spirits because we thought we were too late. There was a narrow dam across the river, we saw the odd crocodile, then the tide came in and soon there were no fewer than 16 (sixteen) saltwater crocodiles, opening their mouths and waiting for the fish to swim into their mouths as the water flowed over the dam.
It was funny that some cars bravely drove further over the dam, but the Aborigines stopped, discussed and preferred to wait for the tide to recede.
It was probably also a rarity or thanks to our perseverance to have seen so many.
In a small shop we also got wholemeal bread, 3 different types and that in the middle of nowhere. What a happy day.
Mary river wilderness 12. October ’18
We leave Kakadu Park and head towards Darwin.
On the way we take a very interesting – almost private (5 people in total) sundown cruise on the Mary River. With lots of birds, crocos, fashion show ……
…..and a beautiful sunset. The next day we had our first tropical downpour.
But rescuing animals is also an adventure – especially for the animals….
At least she still looks back in a friendly way…….
Kangaroo
Finally met alive, hopping, grazing, freezing, peaceful, curious kangaroos (wallabies). And where we didn’t expect it at all, namely when we walked into the wetland to watch loads of birds, some of which were also travelling through. There were 5 kangaroos and the best: one in a pouch; we couldn’t tear ourselves away, but they also stopped to look at us from time to time.
The next day it continued: a few metres from our breakfast table, a couple of kangaroos were cavorting under the morning water sprinkler. In the meantime we’ve already come across a few, especially when the RV Park is laid out in a very natural way or when you have to go out at night, but you have to be careful not to step on frogs the size of your fist. Or one peeping out of the toilet bowl, at first I thought someone hadn’t flushed properly …..
The other day we arrive at an RV park and, as usual, Gerhard wants to connect the electricity (no air conditioning without a connection, sh …. on the environment) and the water and is almost in despair because no water is coming. It then turns out that there’s a small frog in the connection – and it’s blocking it!
We have now decided not to go to Darwin after all and to save it for later. It’s already approaching December and we still have about 1500 kilometres to the coast.
Before that, we want to visit Litchfield National Park, which has been highly recommended to us.
Litchfield Nat. 16. October ’18
A quick trip to the Litchfield National Park. You can camp here in separate areas, toilets and usually showers are available and clean. A small fee is placed in an envelope and thrown into a box. Toilets and showers are cleaned daily. Unlike German motorway car parks. Yes, and there are toilets and rubbish bins in the most remote motorway car parks – almost always in good condition. -G.
Every day you think that was the best and then it gets even better! We are in Litchfield National Park. Amazing, first at the natural pool with 2 waterfalls, unbelievable and I was speechless when I swam across the whole lake twice and completely forgot that 1. I always have to feel the ground under my feet and 2. I can’t manage to swim across a lake. And I only realised that twice the next day. I’m proud of myself! It was exhilarating.
FLORENCE FALLS
We thought that couldn’t be topped. Then we came to a waterfall, which was narrow, but a steep rock face plunged about 200 metres into a pool.
TOLMER FALLS
The 3rd was a huge pool fed by 3 waterfalls and we were the only ones there tonight.
WANGI FALLS
CASCADE
Now we are enjoying the evening, not quite so hot, the crickets are chirping, the birds are calling again and the kangaroos are hopping past from time to time and eyeing us curiously. Early in the morning, before travelling on, we went back inside and again we had a private pool. The park is indescribable, breathtaking (now I know what that means). Every day you think anew that it can’t be topped, over and over again.
Now we make our way westwards to reach the sea again.