MEXICO – Back to the Caribbean

Link to the previous page    NICARAGUA – …to the other island        

An important note about our blog.  Some of the photos may look like they’re from tourist postcards, but – that’s really what it looks like!!!

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         You don’t stop travelling when you’re old;
           you grow old when you stop travelling

CANCUN

 23  June  2026                            

Now we’re off to Mexico. Most airports are a real turn-off. It starts as soon as you walk in. Then there are the long queues at the counters – often a right old mess – and when you get to security, you’re constantly in for surprises. They often come up with something else you’re supposedly not allowed to take with you. No matter how many times you’ve checked the list beforehand, it’s down to the officials themselves, and if they think something isn’t allowed, they often can’t even explain whyAnd then there’s the question of what you’re allowed to bring in and what you’re not.
Well, as there weren’t any consistent rules for Mexico either, we were prepared for anything this time – and what we found was the simplest, friendliest airport. Everything went like clockwork; although our luggage, including our suitcases, was searched by hand three times – which was no fun for them, as my suitcase is full of bits and bobs and they even went through my notepads – but when they finally stopped, looking rather annoyed, just before they got round to my big box of collages, I was so relieved; it really shouldn’t have been allowed into the country either.

The airport transfer was booked via booking.com and everything went very smoothly.
Even if it isn’t exactly a bargain, at least you know exactly how much it costs.  It was particularly striking in Managua once again.  The fare from the city to the airport was around 8 USD.  From the airport back to the same spot in the city, it was at least 20 USD.  The taxi drivers shamelessly take advantage of the fact that you have to get from the airport into the city.  And who arrives feeling stressed and tries to find the right bus, which isn’t equipped for suitcases anyway and is already packed full?  Unfortunately, this is the case at most airports and is a very hostile and almost criminal way of behaving.  It seems that taxi drivers only welcome visitors as a source of income.
Sadly, it’s no different here in Cancún either.
It’s commendable where there’s a taxi rank and you can pay a fair price.  ...-G.)
The accommodation is also OK. It’s owned by a young German who feels quite at home here.

Cancun isn’t exactly what you’d picture when you think of Mexico; even the big supermarket has nothing Mexican about it, not even the hot spices that are so hard to find.
The streets are very wide, easy to navigate, very straight and clean, and not very busy. When you do set off, however, you pass rows of very, very beautiful and unusual houses – the ‘little Ernas’ – which do, after all, remind you of Mexico.
Cancún isn’t really ‘the real Mexico’ either.  The town was only built as a tourist destination in 1970, which explains its wide streets and spacious squares. On the offshore island by the sea, the 20-kilometre-long ‘hotel strip’ was built – effectively one hotel after another, with access to the beach for ‘ordinary’ beachgoers available in only a few places.  The city itself is mostly reserved for locals, for whom there is, however, a good bus service.  But there are also some huge shopping centres in the city centre.  Apart from a few interesting ‘remnants’ dating back to the Mayan era, there are no historic buildings in Cancún.  Cancún is home to Mexico’s second-largest airport, making it particularly easy to reach for visitors from the USA and Canada.

Unlike in Costa Rica or Nicaragua, the two markets in Cancún are more geared towards tourists and offer fewer local produce such as vegetables or fruit, although these are still more likely to be found in the smaller Mercado 23. Many authentic Mexican souvenirs here are also ‘Made in China’.
However, there are a few restaurants serving Mexican food. We didn’t come across any street food here, as you might find in Asia, for example.

One day, we travelled to Tulum for nearly three hours in a very comfortable coach to have a look at the town and three places to stay that we’d picked out, and we found just what we were looking for. We’re already looking forward to the next four weeks in 14 days’ time – and (I’m) looking forward to cycling.  Ooh, I’m coming along too!!
Our spirit of adventure is slowly returning. We’ve got used to the hot temperatures, and even Gerhard, who used to moan about 26° at night, has no problems with 30 or more.   (Or was I perhaps moaning because of the ‘cold’??? ;-))   ...-G.)

Yesterday we ended up at an eco-rainforest park and were thrilled to see some lizards and two coatis. As we were running a bit late and the museum had already closed, we decided to go back the next day – on one condition of mine: we’d take the bus there, as I’d once again fallen for Gerhard’s claim that it wasn’t far! How far? Oh, just a few metres, and then we’d be walking for hours, and by the end I’d barely manage to climb the stairs to our accommodation. From 4.00 pm onwards, the buses are completely packed anyway, and many of them are just minibuses – so anyone taller than 1.80 metres who hasn’t managed to snag one of the few seats ends up standing there with their head tucked in and their back hunched (Petra, of course, walks through the bus with her head held high...   ...-G.) and if you’re lucky and can still somehow see where you need to get off, shouting “Parar, Parar” (Stop, stop) as loudly as possible helps.

It actually worked out and we stopped almost right at the entrance. But there wasn’t much going on today, and the two staff members we asked about the coatis explained that we’d have to be there at 6 am, when they open. Oh dear, that wasn’t quite what we’d imagined. We watched the wide variety of tortoises and were also lucky enough to spot some small iguanas.

Then we set off for the museum, and that’s when the shock hit: it was just 14:10 and the museum closes at 14:00 – who on earth would think of such a thing? So, it was all for nothing.
We decided to at least enjoy the jungle and walk right across the grounds to the other exit. … and then this happened: a pack of at least 20 coatis, including lots of young ones, let us observe their lives for quite a while. It was incredible; we couldn’t believe our eyes. At times we were almost right in the middle of it; sometimes they were on the right in the woods, sometimes on the left; they ran from one side to the other, disappeared into the bushes, came out again and scrambled over rough and smooth.

Today we took a 1½-hour journey by public bus to the trendy hotel strip, home to Cancún’s ‘most beautiful’ beaches.
Even though the hotels are crammed right up against one another, they haven’t forgotten that other people want to enjoy the sea too. It’s a spacious area with free access at Playa Delfines, as well as typical shaded shelters.

Right in the middle of it all is the Maya Museum. As we weren’t at all prepared for Mexico, we wanted to finally start learning about the Maya, whom we might still vaguely remember from the picture books of our childhood. Having finally found it in this unbearable heat: closed! A couple of locals explained to us that it was due to a power cut. Oh well, first we’d top up our water at the nearest shop – but there was a security guard standing outside: closed! We gradually realised that the whole area was affected – no coffee, nothing! Luckily, the buses don’t run on electricity yet and come every 5 (!) minutes. Fortunately, Gerhard remembered that there are still excavations going on here, and luckily for me, I didn’t agree to walk the 10 minutes there, as it actually took 15 minutes by bus.
(I was sure the bus would be here in 10 minutes!!??  ;-)  ) It wasn’t just the excavations that were really interesting – there were also lots of iguanas  of different sizes crossing our path or peeking out from between the stones.  (They also looked as if they were the same age as the stones and that’s why they were still there  ...-G)
Later on, it was quite a sight when they settled down on the columns with their heads held high, so that, against the light, they almost looked like birds.

We took an ‘Uber’ to a slightly more distant excavation site, a former harbour. And once again we came across iguanas, which never cease to fascinate us: when they almost blend into the ancient ruins; when they emerge from cracks or vanish into them in a flash; when they waddle awkwardly across paths or over old bottles; when they pause as if petrified; or when they suddenly dart off at tremendous speed.
The excavations, which aren’t quite finished yet, keep revealing the same or a similar picture: a large step pyramid, the height of which varies depending on how large the site once was. The Maya were present in Mexico from around 1500 BC until they were almost wiped out around 1500 AD by the Spaniards, who were keen to get their hands on the Maya’s wealth. Not everything has been researched yet, as the language of the Maya who lived here has not yet been fully deciphered.
(Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maya_civilization
Another remarkable feature is these ancient trees, some of which have formed a close symbiosis with the structures; it leaves one speechless, and one cannot help but marvel at just how old these trees must be.

As we walked along Beachstreet, we came across a wonderful church. For me, it was the most beautiful I’ve ever seen, and it radiated an incredible warmth. I’d even go there every Sunday. It was built entirely from natural materials: thatched roofs, bamboo pillars, and benches made from beautiful wooden planks. It all felt so warm, so lovingly crafted, so pleasing to God – no ostentation, no labourers who had to lose their lives building these monstrous basilicas (how many, actually?). The surroundings also felt very cosy.

I realised that it would be more practical to hire a car now, as it would make it easier for us to transport our things. As it’s also cheaper to hire a car here in Cancún than in Tulum, we hired one a few days early and today we went straight into the interior of the country to visit one of the many cenotes.
In the Mayan language, a cenote means ‘sacred spring’ and is a natural, freshwater-filled limestone sinkhole. They are formed when the ceilings of underground cave systems collapse, opening up access to groundwater. Most cenotes are located on the Yucatán Peninsula, where they were used as an important source of drinking water and were regarded by the Maya as sacred gateways to the underworld.  Cenotes are classified as open, semi-open and closed.  In the case of open cenotes, the ceiling has either collapsed completely or only partially.  Closed cenotes have only small openings or lie in complete darkness.  Many cenotes are connected to one another via underground channels stretching for hundreds or even over 1,000 kilometres.Our first cenote was a closed one.   ...-G.)

Entrance fees vary widely, up to $40 or more. We found one that didn’t charge an entrance fee – you just had to eat in the restaurant – and we had the most delicious enchiladas, freshly prepared; it was well worth the wait. When I first looked into the cenote, I wasn’t sure whether I’d dare go in. There are two options: jump into a hole and you’ll land in the water 5 metres below (but only with a life jacket!) or carefully climb down an old wooden frame, as the steps are very slippery. After our lovely meal, we plucked up the courage after all and chose the second option; we made it down safely and the sight that met our eyes was like something out of a fairy tale. Many visitors turn back at this point, but I plucked up the courage – especially after Gerhard had bravely tested the water first. The one life jacket lying around down there was far too big for me, so I spotted an old ladder and climbed down into the water, bravely (well, rather cautiously). And it was marvellous – the cleanest water you could imagine, very cold, but given the sweltering temperatures outside, it was actually very pleasant for a swim, and you quickly forget that it’s 15 metres deep.

One problem here was that you simply can’t get any maps of Mexico – or at least of certain parts of it – and the internet and Google don’t offer much either, whilst the small map extracts aren’t much use if you don’t yet know where you’re going. But then, just before we were due to move on, we finally got hold of a map of the Yucatán Peninsula and were left speechless at the sheer variety of things there are to see here and all the things we could have done – though, luckily, we’ll still be able to do some of them from Tulum. We had one day left and wanted to make the most of it.

For Gerhard, it wouldn’t have felt complete unless he’d explored every last corner of this section; luckily, I was allowed to stay behind with the gear, as a long walk in this fine sand is no mean feat. He was back after two hours and, despite his cap and T-shirt, he still looks like a Native American after two days.  (- and he’s proud to be a Native American!   ...-G.)

As we drove along the coast, we could also see that there were some shipwrecked people.  Petra said there were no fish here in the shallow water, but an angler I met along the way proved her wrong.
Fortunately, packing our suitcases into the car that evening wasn’t too much of a faff, and tomorrow we’ll set off for our next stop, three hours away.

Link to the next page            MEXICO – traces of the Maya

The inserted travel routes were created with Google Maps.

Translated with DeepL.com